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Out and about on a warm and sunny Saturday, we head back to the Flea Market to visit the food stalls in the industrial building.  When I walked in, it reminded me very much of a marketplace I went to in Paris, with the olive oil vendors and cheese mongers.  It was definitely a foodie haven.  I roamed the aisles which were full of families shopping, this being a Saturday.  20180428_130946.jpg

Wherever you looked, your eyes feasted on mounds of fresh verdura (vegetables), hanging formaggio (cheese) and salsiccia (sausage). 20180428_130001.jpg I pointed out a few Italian specialties that I knew Peter would never eat  nor understand why anyone else would eat them;  20180428_130304.jpgWhole rabbits were for sale, lots and lots of tripe (stomach intestine), the latter which I can hardly believe I ate for dinner many a night with my father. Now the thought of….let’s not go there.20180428_130202.jpg

The cooking school was on the second floor which was also one huge food court.  20180428_131235.jpgPeople everywhere eating plates of pasta and platters of mortadella, prosciutto, cheeses and olives. AND coffee or rather espresso-Italians love their tiny cups (like a shot) of espresso a few times a day.  There’s no sitting down to linger over a cup of coffee and have the waitress refill your cup. Nope, it’s a stand, sip, swig and go, for them.  Practically everyplace in Italy has a bar or is a bar and is not to be confused with an American bar although they often have wine, beer and some liquors too.

But today is a shopping day, I can feel it in my bones.  Late yesterday as we cruised through the marketplace I spied a particular style handbag 👜 and was hoping to buy one today if I could decide on the right color, decisions, decisions!  So out we go into the crowd of shoppers and after much haggling with one dealer we purchase a very nice belt for Peter and with more negotiating for that special price for you lady,  I bought a lovely pale pink handbag that will never fit in my suitcase going home and and impractical to carry on the plane because it doesn’t close up tightly enough.  Then again not sure practicality plays a big role in impulse shopping.

Enough of this stuff, where’s the antique flea market?  We don’t know who to ask, so we start walking down some other streets in our neighborhood when we come across – you won’t believe it! – A head shop.  It was like a candy store literally, colorful  and happy.  We’re on vacation so what the hey?! I pick out 5 lollipops 🍭 and some stuff that looks like brown rock candy.  I think I asked the woman at the counter about the flavor of one of the lollies and that’s when she casually mentioned that there was no CBD in them. “OH?” MMMmmmm.  That’s when she said that marijuana was illegal in Italy!! A store in Florence full of paraphernalia, pipes, hookahs, edibles, papers and more but NOT really selling marijuana.  I put the lollipops back. She did add that those amber colored candies had a trace of the oil of CBD, “for relaxation “, she said.  Tucked those little sweeties in my handbag and before we left we tried to find out if they knew where there might be an antique flea market?  It was suggested we head to St. Ambroseus Square, and once again we asked  kind strangers to call a taxi for us.

Upon arriving at said square all we found was a couple of racks of used clothing 👎.  We walked around and saw a sign in the distance, stopped at at restaurant to ask what it was and joy of joys, the answer was “oh some antiquities”.  I told you, we have a magnetic attraction to such places.  We split up, each going our own way, it was a two aisle flea market and I found two booksellers with 💯 ‘s of books and neither had what I was searching for – Alice nel  paease delle Meraviglie while Peter was probably drawn to the vintage clothing stalls.  We met in the middle, well that’s not quite true I found him trying to decide between a vintage linen sports jacket and a really smart looking striped jacket. I left him betwixt and between, he would have to decide. I meandered into a lovely booth run by an English lady who had emigrated to Italy and was now a citizen.  We talked about socialized medicine; The topic came up when she saw my boot and cane. She had some interesting English flatware with white Bakelite handles.  I thought one knife and one fork would make a nice addition to my Bakelite flatware at home.

And now we had one more stop to make, I’ve been waiting for two days….The Ponte Vecchio, famous for being the only bridge on the Arno not bombed during the war.  “We must go there Peter”.  Lol lol lol.  Happy Birthday to me – I bought a thin, white gold filigree band, a definite Florentine design, to wear with my wedding band.  Quite the dicothomy there – we bought our wedding bands at a street fair in New York for $10 each because we were looking for an art deco design and we immediately loved them. Don’t put it in the box, I’ll just wear it😍.

P.S. Peter got both the jackets, fair is fair after all.

To be continued…

Io ho fame (I am hungry) and so is Peter. So out of desperation we walk away from The Accademies towards the Duomo.  We’re not planning on going in, just another interminable line, but to admire this beautiful structure from all sides is enough for this day!

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Giotto’s Tower

Giotto’s Tower looms over a plaza filled with tourists eating mediocre food from not real restaurants but this is what you do when you only have limited time to see multiple places in a city like Florence.  I hated the fact that I was eating a dry tasteless panini when last night’s butter chicken, so juicy and flavorful was rapidly becoming a distant memory.

Partially fortified and buoyed by the Morretti beer 🍺 I ordered ( who knew it would 12 oz)?,  we started out heading toward our hotel or at least we thought so.  We ended up in the Plaza dell Republica where there was a charming carousel.

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The night before Peter had discovered a flea market near our hotel – funny how we seem to have a magnetic attraction to such places!  He told me about the this great industrial building housing myriad food stalls and a cooking school.  Flea Market is music to my ears so if we can just figure out how to get a cab, we will be good to go!

Peter spots an empty taxi and with a lot hand gestures and some Italian we learn that she cannot take us BUT she points to a rather large yellow and black sign that says TAXI and lo and behold we have finally discovered how to get one’s own cab.  Finding a Taxi stand is another whole story.  We head to the stand where there is one cab and a couple hop in which allows our new friend, the woman driver, to pick us up, all according to protocol. Just like New York lol.

It’s been a long day for me and I can only  imagine how long the leather, scarf, and souvenir dealers have been there – probably at least since 9am.  They are tireless in their pitching, their seductive beseeching of a special price just for you.  I knew what I was looking for and actually found it in one of the first stalls, much to the delight of  the dealer who was definitely not Italian, I think perhaps Indian or Pakistani. Just like New York all over again. I had a great time negotiating the prices of some items.

We ambled through the colorful stalls replete gorgeous handbags and smart leather borsas (bags)  for men.  Leather belts, leather jackets in styles I’ve never seen but will look forward to seeing if the look comes to America.  One particular red swing style with black trim and a stand up collar caught my 👁.  That’s all you have to do – hesitate for a moment and they pounce on you like a jaguar leaping from a tree branch onto an unexpecting guinea hen.  “Madam must try it on, come inside my shop for a minute. I have your size, It is a beautiful coat, no?” Talk about fast talk…if only they were selling cars they could make so much more money.  Well the jacket was stunning and I would never see myself coming or going….but I wasn’t really in the market for a leather jacket.  I looked at the price tag and immediately it was discounted, still I fended him off saying perhaps I would be back tomorrow. The man escorted me back into the market and whispered in my ear, “don’t worry about the price, for you I make a special price” and he reduces it another €40!

Time to go back to the hotel, refresh, relax and think about dinner. All the places I had heard about and those I looked upon my own, were nowhere near where we were staying. Florence is a walking town but not with a broken foot, the cobble stones were killing me so we were taking taxis a lot and never one for less than €11-€13 which is pricey considering the conversion rate is not in our favor (and hasn’t been anyplace in Europe for years!!). Therefore we’re going to eat in the hood.  Peter had walked past a quaint ad lovely restaurant by the name of La Fontacine.

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I ordered a delicious dish of sliced Bistecca Florentine sliced, and served over insalta rucola con  pinoli e una ciotola di ribollita.  

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The ribollita is a white bean, greens and bread soup to die for.  I’m not kidding!!! I asked the Maitre d’ if he would ask the chef for the recipe but alas the chef had departed for the evening🙁.  I am determined to find a recipe for this marvelous meal in a bowl. In fact, a friend of mine, Heather Smith was just in Florence and wrote to me about this yummy stew she had there called ribolitta!

A little nightcap of gelato from the corner shop and back to the hotel, the end of another long day.

C’iao for now!

To be continued…

I was warned about the lines to get into The Uffizi so I made reservations for us to go at 10:30 am Friday morning.  I set my phone alarm to wake us up at 8:30 and asked Alessandro to call a taxi for us at 10:15.  He assured me he would be around. He was NOT. I used WhatsApp to try to reach him but nada. So we went across the street and had a cornetto and caffe, and then asked the waitress to call us a taxi.  The taxi system in Florence is Extensive because they always come in 2 or 3 minutes.  Why the hell you  can’t flag one down yourself is a total mystery.  We had to find someone every time we wanted to go anywhere Or as I was wont to say, “ I have always depended on the kindness of strangers”.

As we approach The Uffizi, I see the llllooooonnnnggggg line.   I look at our tickets and don’t see any information as to where to go.  We have to find someone !!!!! There are so many private tour guides hawking, it’s hard to tell who is official. We are directed to door #3 which amazingly has a minute line and we check in.  Then we’re told to go to door #1 where the line extends to the parking lot.  Oh no,no, no!  I head toward the door bypassing the line and am stopped by two young men. One takes a look at me and my cane and boot and takes my arm and says to come with him.  He escorts us down to another door, gives instructions to another guard and we are in! Now we wait while another nice man gets me a wheelchair and takes my driver’s license.

Peter gets to push the wheelchair and I don’t think he is thrilled about it, and I have my own reservations about his driving skills.  We encounter a staircase and look for the lift.  Interesting size of the elevator, I have to go straight in and I mean straight barely clearing the doors.   We are cruising a long hallway where the doorways are marked with the names of one master artist after another.  We skip Giotto because it is so crowded, head to Leonardo and ogle one masterpiece after another including his magica.  Our eyes devoured Caravaggio’s, Correggio’s, works by Botticelli, Titian, Lippi, Raphael,  and Michelangelo.  We catch Giotto on the return.  The ceiling is as beautiful as some of the paintings, we stop and look out the windows across the Arno.20180427_110632.jpg

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The first is Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus and the second is Carravaggio’s Bacchus. As we entered each gallery I found I could actually maneuver the wheelchair pretty well myself – and thank goodness because it was making me nervous every time I felt I was being pushed forward behind people.  By the time we were ready to  leave, I had the beginnings of some sore red  blisters forming.  We had to return the wheelchair, and once again ask someone to call a cab for us. Peter is sure we are missing something; Every tourist in Florence an’t be asking strangers to call taxis for them?

The staff at The Uffizi was great. I bought two postcards in the store and asked the cashier where do I return the wheelchair?  She was going to explain but the decided to take me there herself. So, she left her register and indicated that I should follow her.  She had me sit on a chair near an exit while she retrieved my license and returned with another woman who said our taxi was waiting and escorted us to the end of the driveway.

No time for lunch, we are off to the Accademia Museum to see the one, the only, David. I’ve got a 2:00 date with him and  I don’t want to be late!

20180427_144311.jpgYes, he is magnificent! The sculpting is amazing  and from a single block of marble!

To be continued…

Getting the luggage off the train seemed a bit easier, probably because the same man who helped us get it on didn’t even bother to ask if we needed help, he just picked it up and took it to the platform.  Another man who had hoisted the carry-on suitcase onto the upper rack, retrieved it and handed it to us. I didn’t think we were old and feeble and I just had my hair dyed so I’m crediting the cane for this attention.

I was sure our hotel was close to the train station but there was no way I was going to be able to walk very far dragging suitcases and the boot.  By now it is about 3pm  and we have been up since 7:30 am the day before (yawn). The hotel is literally around the corner and down the street but of course it is a one way street like every other street in Florence ( we were to soon find out).

The trip to Florence was actually an add on, the main idea was to experience living in Italy in a small village like a native, not a tourist on vacation.  I wanted Peter to see Florence even though I knew we were not staying in the beautiful Florence, we know from postcards and the movies.  To work three nights in Firenze into my travel budget, I picked a low budget hotel ( well really, we’re just going to sleep there).  Guess which one we’re staying at?  20180426_215650.jpgTo say that the room was small would be an understatement, to say that the neighborhood was replete with tourist hotels and every day, all day and night people pulling suitcases walked the streets.  It was an amazing sight.  We did notice that an unusually large number of the tourists were Asian and we found a few Chinese restaurants, even one with an Italian name and a Chinese name.   Our host Alessandro was quite a combination of a scholar and perhaps a not terribly conscientious businessman.  He spoke 5 languages and was quite engaging. He was considerate and solicitous of our wants albeit he didn’t always follow through.  Pros: convenient location to train station (although by taxi you would never know it), many little cafes and restaurants that cater to tourists (read eggs and toast and American coffee), A/C , TV. Cons: tiny shower, tiny bottle of soap/shampoo combo, no shelf in bathroom or toilet roll holder or mirror. No hooks or closet in room. Mosquitoes 😧. However it may sound, this is how it went down… Peter wanted to look around the neighborhood and I wanted to put my foot up on the bed with that blasted boot off.  I started to work on my iPad doing an Italian lesson and after 3 mistakes in a row, I closed it, put my head down and fell asleep.  Peter came back and tried to talk to me, I just waved him away.  Eventually up and refreshed we headed out to the famous (by word of mouth) Trattoria Sostanza.  My friend, Bobbie Gitter encouraged me to go to Florence and to definitely eat at this restaurant.   Famous for its Bistecca Florentine and Pollo di burro, I swear every single person in the restaurant was eating the same thing! Platter after platter came out of the kitchen with everyone  ordering the Tortino Carciofi  as an appetizer followed by the steak and chicken.  20180426_201108.jpg20180426_201104.jpg20180426_194209.jpg20180426_210025.jpg

The food was delicious, the service attentive, they only have two seatings a night and you must have a reservation.  And after that fabulous meal and the thousands of air and train miles and no sleep except for a nap, we headed back to the Hotel Etrusca and promptly fell asleep 💤

To be continued…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stop, Look and there you’ll see that all the white taxis are coming from around the corner and they have people in them, let’s go that way. I can only imagine how we looked; Peter loaded down with bags hanging from his shoulders, some suitcases rolling, I’m bobbling along on my cane, quite the pair.

We made good time getting to the center of Rome and our driver dropped us off on the appropriate side of the Termini (which is important because I swear the station is the size of the Coliseum).

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I tried to plan ahead for everything; I made the train reservations weeks ago.  I converted currency so I wouldn’t get ripped off at the airport and I would have €uros to pay the taxi. Oh so smart- BUT what I didn’t remember was that I had to get some small bills AND that the cab drivers in Italy don’t expect tips. SOoooo the $53€uro cab fare had me in a bind.  I had a fifty and a ten, was tired and couldn’t figure out a tip, because Italian cabs charge for luggage too.  Oh well, that $€7 tip re-enforced the driver’s opinion that Americans are either rich and generous or stupid but at least not Ugly Americans.  FD6366CD-F097-4F4D-BD4F-E9571560417A.jpeg

Now it was just a matter of waiting to see out train’s departure  announced on the big board – just like Penn Station. We waited, and waited, and waited. Pretty soon I was sitting on the floor ( I still can’t believe it), I was so tired, my foot was aching. Train was scheduled to depart at 12:18 and by the time it was 12:10 and the binario (platform) was still not posted, I suggested Peter go to the Italo booth and see what’s what. Naturally there was a line AND he had to take a number! Like in a butcher shop!!  Good thing he went, apparently the last stop on the 🚂 is Brescia, so that’s the town that appears on the screen. Who knew?  Don’t ask, don’t tell.

Here we are again trying to transport 5 pieces of luggage, 2 alter cockers, 1 cane  and a partridge in a pear tree through a swarming crowd (think the subway at 8:30am) and locate platform 6, Carriage #5 (think West 45th St at 7:45pm). We got to Carriage #5 and WE COULDN’T LIFT THE LUGGAGE UP THE TWO STEPS into the train!!! Oh what a scene; Literally we look like we are out of Central Casting. Unwashed, unshaven, the ubiquitous black string passport bag swinging down in front of me, Peter straining to pull the big suitcase up the stairs, ay yi yi! Finally some man who truly would like to board the train, picks up the bag and plops it down in the aisle. I wondered where the suitcases would go – they gather behind the last seat. BUT We still have another bag too heavy for me to lift and I’m still outside and Peter is in. This rather strong looking young woman looks at me and the cane and shakes her head and picks up the bag and pushes it onto the train where Peter can retrieve it and store with the other. A thousand Mille grazies are pouring forth from me as I get on the train. I half expected to hear 👏 not because I did anything but because finally I’m out of everyone’s  way and they can get on the train. We found space for the smaller bags, settled down and shortly into the trip fell sound 💤.

Sleep is an amazing state especially when you’ve been up for over 24 hours.  THEN, “Signora, SIGnora, SIGNORA” –  I wake up with a horrific start and cry “ Oh no I was sleeping”.  That precious elusive sleep was snatched away with a “Tickets please”.

To be continued…

 

 

 

For once in our lives we actually left for the airport on time, no racing out the door, no panic because we could not find a cab.  Off to a good start.  Let’s begin by saying I’m probably not the best packer, so for me to pack for a month’s stay in a place where they hang their underwear out on the front balcony was a real challenge and we ended up with 1 LARGE suitcase, 1 Carry-on suitcase,  2 small Travel cases and 1 large  leather tote and a cane of course.

First things first, we knew our best bet was to get me in a wheelchair because you know the gate I’m going to is ALWAYS the farthest away.  I like to look at the boards of the other 9 gates as I drag my bags along to see if they are going someplace I’d rather be.

Never being handicapped before, I had no idea of how fantastic it was to travel this way.  I was wheeled up to the counter because I had a bag to check (and no Juanita we we were not overweight). Madeia took care of us, with the broadest most perfect ivory smile I have ever seen. She laughed, she told us about her singing career and her idol, Billie Holiday.  We promised to be in the audience when she performed some day in Carnegie Hall and I do believe she will get there.

She signaled for someone to take us to the TSA check and me and the wheelchair just cruised to head of line and we let Peter come with us.  For some reason I was pre-approved but he was not, Mmmm.  Who knew Mr. Press was a security risk? Anyway I had to put all my bags on belt and hobble thru the X-ray.  I didn’t beep but they ran the wand over the boot – let us not forget the infamous shoe bomber! Once thru I’m left sort of standing there leaning like the Tower of Pisa waiting for the man and the wheelchair to appear and at the same time look over at the conveyer for my bags.

FC482810-7C9E-4F66-9933-BAD5EE1D2B60.jpegI see all but the tote which of course has my phone, my iPad, and my euros. I’m really panicking and if you can imagine what a whirling dervish with a limp would look like like -that’s me as I scan my entire perimeter looking for that bag and Peter joins in looking for his passport. Kindly man shows up with chair and wonders what the problem is? Where is my bag?  Apparently it is under further examination….

It’s noon, we left at 10:10, still no coffee, still no breakfast.   C554415C-58A1-4490-BFA9-381229FC0AECI wish I could remember kindly man’s name but I can’t, says Dunkin Donuts and that sounds good to me.  Wait a minute, didn’t I envision a month of frutta, formaggio, Parma e caffe per colazione every morning for a month?? Oh well still in USA. I drew the line at the coffee though insisting we go to Starbucks after we got the donuts. Look how quickly one can become a diva sitting on a throne! LOL.

Finally onto the plane for a quick flight to Charlotte NC for a 2+ hour layover  where I suggested we eat some real food because I remembered last year they didn’t serve dinner till around 11pm. When it was time to start boarding, this adorable young man shows up –  Kevin Hill.  Oh my, after a protracted winter of gray days and the stress of the last few days, that Southern charm was rolling off his tongue like ice cream melting on a warm day. He “yes mam’ed”  and “Miss Laura’ed” me every few words all the way from the gate right up to the plane. I told him he needed to trade up that green uniform working for the airport and get a blue, red and white Americann Airlines uniform to cash in on the perks.  With his south of the Mason Dixon line charm,  he would make a great attendant.

I booked each of us an aisle seat at opposite ends of a 4 seat row.  I figured we would work it out and so I talked Peter into giving his seat up to sit next to me.  BUT that wasn’t so smart since my bad foot was not on the aisle and we wedged in there pretty tight.  Halfway through the delicious airline meal, the man in front of Peter shoves his seat back  in full force, just about knocking his meal off the tray. Shortly thereafter the woman in front of me does the same.  THIS HAPPENS ALL THE TIME! I sit on the aisle  so I can access the bathroom and not disturb anyone else – these other people sit in the aisle seat because they are the size of a cow.

Long night, could not sleep, pretty scrunched up. I can’t even turn sideways but the rude disgusting person in front of me with her seat pushed back and blanket up to her chin , legs stretched out in front of her watching tv like she was in her living room. I was miserable 😩. I tried taking the boot off and letting it  rest on the plastic bag holding the pillow and blanket but my foot kept falling off the slippery plastic.

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I tried to take some Tylenol to ease the pain in my arthritic knees and wanted to stand up so I asked Peter to turn on his light. All the controls were on an unlit  panel and in a  moment an attendant appeared  – how embarrassing ! I tell her we don’t need any help, it was a mistake. She says, “perhaps you do, you are holding pills”. I try to explain in shorthand that my knees hurt, my foot can’t move, nor can I get up because the seat in front is so far back and and I had been thinking of going to rear of plane to see if I could sit in back with her and prop leg up. At first she said it was against regs  but then said seeing how I’m in distress, it would be ok. I opted for the Tylenol and would see if they worked. They didn’t!

Now I notice Peter is waching The Phantom Thread and I want to watch it also but my screen isn’t quite functioning correctly. We can’t get my screen to move to another page so Peter starts tapping really hard on the screen and rapidly. All of a sudden the seat in front of me jerks forward! Ha! I guess she thought I was sending a message , Oh please let me just make it thru this night and off the plane.

Plane was scheduled to land at 9:30am and we needed to get luggage, go thru customs get a 🚕 and get to Rome Termini (train station) where we had reservations for a train to Florence. Well first ondoes not mean first off. Quite the contrary.  I was told to move up to front of plane to wait for the wheelchair.  Got to sit in Business class and was able to fantasize how easy it would be to sleep there. Well turns out several people were gathered and directed off the plane not onto a jetway with a wheelchair waiting- no it was like a large tram on stilts because it was at plane exit level. We sat on benches along the walls. They were all over 80 I swear and not a cast, cane or boot among them!!! We began to move along, going God knows where. We stop. A young girl calls out a name and after several attempts we figure out she is saying McCarthy. That couple exits. I’m wondering how we are going to get our luggage go through customs and get that taxi to the train on time. There were like 2 couples nearer to the door than me but the nice Italian man who was the driver, looked at me and held his hand out to escort me out to the platform that then lowered you to ground level where the wheelchair was waiting.  What a contraption and how efficient!

We are wheeled to yet another terminal and I see the place looks empty, maybe the lines for customs has come and gone. NOT. Long hot lines of overtired, unwashed, teeth undressed people shifting their weight and dragging luggage.  Ahhh the wheelchair rules. Right to a special deal, no line, no questions. Nobody cares why we are here or how long we will stay or did we vote for Trump (ha ha only kidding)!

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Ah but before we get to the land of ruins and romance we still have to get to the airport on time.  And before that somebody had to put in a significant amount of time planning and planning and planning  every detail of this adventure in Italia.

The hardest part was coordinating the flights so we could fly out together but return at different times.  In the early 1990’s I wrote down about 25 goals I hoped  to achieve and one of them was to spend 3-6 months in Italy.  Well as you know life takes over and here it another year in another decade so…okay it won’t be 3 months – I’ll spend one month in Italy and really try to learn some more Italian.  And that’s why we are flying home at different times LOL – it’s my dream, not Peter’s.

My sister-in-law Juanita was kind enough to agree to stay in our apartment and feed out cats and move our car for alternate side parking.  Luckily for us it coordinated with some NYC doctor appointments she had. So far she has reported that the luck of the Irish has been with her because the 2 times she went down to move the car, the street cleaner didn’t show up in the designated half hour you must be in your car and prepared to move it. Luck of the Irish??? She’s Spanish and Italian!!! 418DAE9B-3225-43EF-9A33-EEC8BEEAF863

Then there was the housing arrangements n Guardia San Framondi where we decided to return. It’s a small village in the mountains of Campania.

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View of Guardia Sanframondi. You can clearly see the old town and parts of the new town built around it.

Last year we came as tourists, this year we live here.  Also a car rental, train tickets to and from Florence ( YES we spent 3 nights in Firenze), two hotel rooms for two nights in Rome because return flights to NYC are early morning and Guardia 3 hours away! Cell phone plans, cancel newspapers in NYC and NJ,  hold the mail, cover myself for real estate ( more about that later), sign permission slips for key entry to our apt for Juanita and then Jade, who is coming in for 4 days to take care of the cats and visit her mom and also our cat sitter wo will look after the fur babies for 2 days until Peter returns. Exchange currency, WHEW!

I did all this planning throughout February and early March AND THEN on March 8th, I broke my right foot 😫!

A Nor’easter was raging outside so I stayed inside and was cleaning. Vacuumed the den, left the vacuum cleaner in the doorway, picked up the brass waste basket and walked barefoot out of the room – tripped on the cord, dropped the metal can and must have  have landed on my own foot and broke (not fractured) the fifth metatarsal.  At this point I didn’t

really believe it was broken but I can now say I brought my boot to the boot. Does the cliche, “…the best laid plans…” come to mind?

But the next day after a hobble to City MD and brutally revealing X-Ray and a visit to an orthopedist , I added this to my pack list; 8FEE8EB9-48A9-49D8-A7EE-3A65B57FE6AD

The following article was written by Charles M. Blow, columnist for the New York Times.  Article appeared Monday, October 16, 2017.  It is long, but well written and worth reading.

IT MUST BE cold and miserable standing in the shadow of someone greater and smarter, more loved and more admired.  It must be infuriating to have risen on the wings of your derision, and even his very existence, and yet not be able to measure up – in either stratagem or efficacy – when you sit where that person once sat.

This is the existence of Donald Trump in the wee of President Barack Obama.  Trump can’t hold a candle Obama, so he’s taking a tiki torch to Obama’s legacy.  Trump can’t get his bad ideas through Congress, but he can use the power of the presidency to sabotage or even sink Obama’s signature deeds.

In fact, if there is a defining feature of Trump as “president”, it is that he is in all ways the anti-Obama – not only on policy but also on matters of propriety and polish.  While Obama was erudite, Trump is ignorant.   Obama was civil, Trump is churlish.  Obama was tactful, Trump is tacky.

There is a thing present in Obama and absent from Trump that no amount of money or power can alter:  a sense of elegant intellectualism and taste.

The example Obama set makes the big man with the big mouth look smaller by the day.  But I believe that this nonadjustable imbalance is part of what has always fueled Trump’s rage against Obama.  Trump, who sees character as just another malleable thing that can be marketed and made salable, chafes at the black man who operated above the coarseness of commercial interests and whose character appeared unassailable.

America – even many of the people who were staunch opponents of Obama’s policies – admired and even adored the sense of honor and decency he brought to the office.  Trump, on the other hand, is historically unpopular, and to just in America.  As The Pew Research enter pointed out in June: “Trump and many of his key policies are broadly unpopular around the globe, and ratings for the U.S. have declined steeply around the globe and America’s reputation is going down with its captain.

All of this feeds Trump’s consuming obsession with undoing everything Obama did.  It is  his personal crusade, but he also carries the flag for the millions of Americans *- mostly all Republicans – who were reflexively  repulsed by Obama and the coalition that elected him.  

Trump has done nearly everything in his power to roll back Obama’s policies but none are as tempting a target as the one named after him: Obamacare.*

Republicans – including Trump – campaigned for years on a lie.  They knew it was a lie, but it was an enraging one that excited their base: Obama was destroying America’s health care system, but Republicans could undo the damage and replace it with their own, better bill.

First, Obamas wasn’t destroying America’s health care system.  To the contrary, he simple sought to make it cover more people.  He moved to take American health care in a more humane, modern and civilized direction, to make it more universally accessible, even by the sick and poor who often took its absence as a given.

Second, the Republicans had no replacement plan that would cost less and cover as many or more people.  That could not be done  So, their repeal-and-replace efforts failed.  But that also meant that Trump’s promise was proven a lie. Trump has no problem lying,  but in the end he wants his lies to look plausible.

Trump makes assertions for which there is no evidence – either knowingly lying, recklessly casting or wishfully thinking – then seeks support for those statements, support that is often lacking because the statements are baseless.

He violates a basic protocol of human communication: Be sure of it before you say it.  his way sis to say something wrong, then bend reality to make it appear right.  This is why the age of Trump is so maddening and stupefying: He is warping reality.  

Last week he took more swipes at undermining the A.C.A.:  Asking his administration to find ways to increase competition among insurers (a move many worry will not move younger, healthier people out of the marketplace) and stopping the so-called “cost-sharing reduction” (CSR) payments – federal subsidies paid to insurance companies to help finance overage for low-income Americans ( a move many believe will send premiums soaring of for those people).

Trump is doing this even though it will likely wreak havoc on countless lives.  He is doing  this even thought a Kaiser Health Tracking Poll released Friday found that most Americans want Trump and Congress to stop trying to repeal the law, and instead work on legislation to stabilize the marketplaces and guarantee health care to Americans.

Furthermore, six in 10 Americans believe Congress should guarantee cost sharing reduction payments, as opposed to only a third  who view these payments as a “bailout of insurance companies,” as Trump has called them.  There is no real reason to cut these payments, other than to save face and conceal the farce.

Trump isn’t governing with a vision, he’s governing out of spite.  Obama’s effectiveness highlights Trump’s ineptitude, and this incenses Trump.

*the italics within the article are mine.

AND TO THINK I THOUGHT A COLONIAL BUILT IN THE 1700’S WAS HISTORICAL!!

Raphael offered to take us to see some ancient ruins IF we could be up and ready by 8:30am on Thursday morning.  Ugh, the thought of being showered and out of the apartment by then was distasteful BUT an opportunity to see something with Raphael, would certainly be interesting.  It was wonderful for us to see Italy through the eyes of an Italian who spoke English.  We knew how lucky we were to find not one, or two but three locals to  whom we could turn to when only English would do and not my fragmented Italian.

So  armed with cups of strong Italian coffee, we took off for parts unknown.  Peter let me sit in the front which was a bonus and a tribulation.  I got to listen to and speak to Raphael easier than if I sat in the back BUT as we careened down the mountain’s curved roads and through some very narrow little villages and more mountain roads, I clung to the armrest on the door of his little Fiat.

We arrived to a time and place that up till now only existed in ancient history books.  It was a beautiful sunny morning and this national landmark was open to all at any time.  No parking lots, no tickets to buy, no lines to stand in – just history in its purest form!

Altilia was an ancient Samnite town in south central Italy.  This area was heavily invaded and within the walls of this town, you can see influence from Romans and Greeks as well.  Although the ruins are not outstanding, it was the most serene place to be on sunny late spring morning.

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Look closely and you can see the image of a bird’s head and beak.

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One of my favorite photos showing the aqueduct system running through the foundations of the houses. Hot water ran under the stone homes to heat them in the winter.

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Some pillars are still standing from one of the two temples in Altilia. Temples to Jupiter and Apollo had been erected there.

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The remains of the town’s amphitheater remain fairly intact.

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Imagine these walls, built so long ago that the town itself was captured by the Romans in 293 BC

I learned so much about Sepino (Altilia formerly) from Raphael – I have to repeat how lucky we were to have his company and expertise guiding us through these ancient ruins.  He is a very intellectual man, a former professor and a student of sociology and philosophy.

Herb Garden Chicken

I mentioned yesterday that my neighbor has invited me to raid his herb garden anytime I want.  Afraid I might not venture into his backyard and help myself, he showed up at my front door two days ago with three ziploc bags: Fresh oregano, fresh thyme and fresh rosemary.  He freely admits he’s not a cook; the herbs in his garden are there to be available  to his son (who is a great cook), when he visits.  I think because he doesn’t cook, he didn’t realize that I could never use up all these herbs while they’re still fresh – I think they’re destined for the freezer in another day or so.

Ah hah!  I found two recipes online that would utilize all three, at least I could make a dent in my bounty.  Last night I made ROSEMARY BREAD and while it was cooling, I prepped some chicken quarters for today’s recipe;  LEMON and OREGANO CHICKEN.  It uses thyme, oregano and basil.  We had it for dinner tonight and Peter was amazed at how delicious marinated chicken tastes and he prefers chicken breasts not the dark meat quarters.  It’s really easy!

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photo by David Prince

LEMON and OREGANO CHICKEN

1 (3 1/2 -4lb) whole chicken cut up or the equivalent weight in breasts, legs, thighs

Fresh basil torn into pieces

2 garlic cloves minced

1 lemon / zest and juice

1/4 cup of fresh oregano

2 TBS fresh thyme

3 TBS balsamic vinegar

Kosher salt and ground pepper

1 pinch of red pepper flakes

1/4 cup olive oil

Whisk olive oil, vinegar, lemon zest and juice, oregano, thyme, basil, garlic and crushed pepper.  Put the mixture in a large ziploc bag and add the chicken.  Let it marinade 1-2 hours or overnight.  I opted for overnight which also means all the next day.

Season the chicken with salt and pepper and grill breast side down (or skin side) on medium high with lid closed for 10–15 minutes and charred.  Flip over and cook till the chicken registers an internal temperature of 160º.  Let rest 10 minutes.

This recipe is a variation of Martha Stewart’s Grilled Chicken with Lemon and Oregano