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Archive for the ‘Travel-Where in the World are Peterlori?’ Category

My sojourn in Italy has been full of lazy mornings of sipping coffee and afternoons of grocery shopping and along the way there have been some adventures and misadventures.

The GPS in this car has been a nightmare from the beginning and so it continues.  Last week when I went to Molise I swear we were routed through a vineyard.  This time Joel and I found ourselves in two really bad jams with the directions.  One mistake was as we were cruising along he pointed a particularly pretty village set high up,on a mountain to the right and just beyond that I noticed an old red Volkswagon bug. Said, “you don’t see many of them any more”.  Thirty minutes later Joel says I think we’re going in a ⭕️ that village looks familiar. Naturally I said, “oh so many of them look alike”.  And then 10 feet down the road I spied the red VW. Oh for God’s sake, we hate this British bitch.  F409E9BE-8DF7-4D1D-960B-F5570AB6B714.jpeg

As if that incident were not bad enough, we also found ourselves being routed or re-routed over some tractor trail. It was full of ruts, holes, mud, puddles, rocks and often severely lopsided. Of course that was ridiculous.  What kind of directionS take you through someone’s farmland? I’ll tell you what kind, the stupid kind.

The trip from Guardia to Molise is approximately 58 minutes, it took us about 2 hours.  Here’s one of the reasons why:

To be continued…

 

 

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Joel decided he would like to visit his great-grandfather’s ancestral home so we set off for Molise.  Molise is the smallest and youngest of the regions in Italy and lucky for me it isn’t too far from where we are in Campania.

Peter and I made the same trek last week because when we went there last year in my quest to find my roots, we met the most delightful woman, Tina di Giglio, who,was raised in Syracuse NY and then as a teenager, her family returned to Mirabello and now she works in the registry department in the Municipio in the village. Tina greeted us with a warm hug and a huge caciocavallo, which is an excellent cheese, also known as horse cheese.

5FB744B3-C221-4260-BF14-1825A23C54DA.jpegWe spent a couple of hours poring over ledgers from the 1890’s through the early 1900’s.  I was trying to determine which brother was the older, my grandfather, Luciano or his brother, Antonio -a great debate had ensued over the winter between cousins. It’s amazing what can get so-call lost in translation  or just misinformation! Anyway to set the record straight, Grandpa Louie was the elder.

We were also looking for death certificates of 3 siblings, who,we never knew about until my cousin Kathi unearthed records through the Mormons.  I found those; very, very sad, a girl child named Giovanna died at 11months old. A few years later, a baby boy was born and named Giovanni and died 7 days later.  More years passed and a girl child was born and named Giovanna- she died at 18 months.  It was heartbreaking to think of what our ancestors suffered through.

Joel and I stopped for gas on our way and naturally no one spoke Englishand it was a self service station. Well I was a little familiar with how it worked having experienced it with Peter. So I took out 20€ and was slowly deciphering the Italian instructions when an attendant popped over. I indicated I wanted to put the diesel fuel in. OK, he went ahead and took the 20€ put it in his pocket, pulled out some card which he swiped over the pump and proceeded to pump in the fuel. DONE! No change and I can’t see the pump to see what registered.  I’m pretty sure we were taken!

Ten feet out of the station two lights on the dashboard go on !! Now you know that the manual is completely in Italian and at this time I didn’t know how to photograph text and get it translated. So I did what I do best.  Out of the car with cane and manual in hand I walk into a cafe, “do you speak English?” NO. He says the word Tabacchi and points down the parking lot.  We go in, the man speaks a little. I show him the manual with the icons of the lights that are on and he somehow gets it across to us that the pressure is low and he says oil (I think) but I point to the oil can icon so we soon learn it is a tire.  Joel says probably because of the rocks ( more about that later) and the other light – he makes the motion of pulling up the emergency brake and again Joel says it might not have been down all the way. Mille grazie and out we go.  Our luck, there is a small tire shop 2 doors down, unbelievable ! I walk over and stand in the doorway of the garage.  There are two cute men who, are obviously brothers and another very good looking man working on a car 🚗. They look at me, I look at them.  A few more moments pass, one of the men approaches me and I say, “I need help” and I point to the tire which looks a little soft.  He, in turn, tells the other 2 of my problem and they all come over. Si, they look at the tire, it needs air. The main guy gets the air pump and proceeds to check each tire and fill with air. I say, “I hate this car” . They laugh, and it is a Renault. 9E9CFBC2-7ADF-47B9-898E-9AEC45511752.jpeg

My response is “Yes and that is the problem, it is a French car”. That sends them all laughing. Of course the French can’t make a good car.  Joel asks them what do they think the best car is. All together now, “Mercedes and Volkswagon”.

I offered to pay and of course the answer was no.  We are so happy to have our problem fixed but when we get in the car the light is still on 😳.  We sit and I wave at them and we explain that the Luce rossa is still on. Good looking Italian gets into the car next to me, looks at the dashboard, touches something and the light goes off.  Really I did want to kiss him!”Grazie  grazie Italian genius “, we say and off we go.

To be continued…

 

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After spending all that money in the supermarket, I was ready to live out yet another fantasy of my trip;  And that was to invite some new friends over for drinks and to got to dinner with them.  We made plans with Steve and Cindy to join us for apps and qfor drin and the we would go to Alchime, a very hip restaurant in town that Peter refers to as the night club.  He knows he can get a decent martini there!

We thought we were going to hear some jazz but unfortunately someone in the group was ill.  The word either got out that there was no music or even though we’re New Yorkers and often eat after 9:00, apparently we were still early for the Italian crowd, because it was just us four and another couple we were introduced to, Raoul and Anna. And we all ordered the same thing WHICH Imwas informed is JUST not the thing Italians order out because it’s what they eat at home.  Well really?! It was delicious, I believe I was a tagliatelle con sugo e polpetti. Tutto squisto!

Cindy had had Gin Gibson at our place and I don’t know if she switched to vodka, but she and Peter were loving them those onions! There was discussion up at the  bar with the young female bartender and Peter because he returned with his Gibson in a martini glass AND that’s the way he likes to drink his martinis and Gibsons period!

795F3DE3-C6B1-4C7D-992B-95FAB3FA589F.jpegGuardia is a small town and everyone is so friendly.  The influx of foreigners (many Americans) has not negatively impacted the town;  Some new businesses have opened which cater to the new arrivals and their tastes, I believe Alchime is one and certainly a welcome addition.  3BED1D58-535A-4FFF-ADC2-207EE6FCA763

Speaking of Guardia….

To be continued…

 

 

 

 

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It ’s Sunday evening after a harrowing day and we have reached our final destination.  We are welcomed with open arms by Pasquale, our landlord and local entrepreneur and his lovely mama, Anna.  It’s good to be back again.

After a few more pleasant exchanges, we made our way home to the apartment where we would be staying for a week or so.  I sent Peter out to a restaurant across the street for some pizza and to see if he could find a martini ( yeah good luck).   A little unpacking to settle in and find one’s toothbrush while Peter locates an English speaking channel.

The apartment is not why I came to Italy it’s why Peter came. It is modernly finished and furnished; two flat screen TVs( essential one in BR) centrally located, microwave oven, lovely bathroom, you get the picture!

WEEK One:

MONDAY: Well I told Peter the tourist-eating- out-every-meal was basically over and now we were “living” here so we better go to the grocery store.  We are near the Deco Supermarket, our next destination.  “Just a few things”, I say, “ the essentials,” which came to $94 € later and now the store manager loves me.  Probably no one else has spent that much money at one time in his store in who knows when, PLUS the cane and boot,

I’m excited to cook something that night but there may be an issue with the gas. Or it may be something lost in translation but I’m afraid to start cooking pasta and have the gas run out in the middle and I’m not getting the reassurance I need to hear from Pasquale who says he can check tomorrow. SOOoooo Peter goes to Pasquale’s bar to buy a chicken for dinner and I decide to make a fancy insalata.  My idea did not go over so well.

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Radicchio, fennel red onion and oranges just didn’t make it as salad for him.  We did have a good laugh though when we figured out that we were renting a place that should have gas but maybe didn’t from Pasquale so in order to eat, we buy a chicken from him.  Works out really well for him!

TUESDAY: When we stay at the apartment, we can go to the bar in the morning if we wish, and have grande caffe Americano, one nero and one con latte calde and our choice of a brioche. This sort of uinversal breakfast pastry varies in form and name and filling. In Florence they were smaller and referred to as a cornetto, in the U.S.A. I’ve heard them called croissants, at Orso’s it’s a bioche with cream or marmaletta or ciocolatta, or a fruit tart. We sit outside, sip our coffee, Peter reads The NY Times because his wonderful wife got a month’s subscription on her kindle for him! We spent about two hours soaking up sunshine in the garden.

WEDNESDAY: As we sat having our usual morning coffee, we were introduced to Steve and Cindy, a couple from Arizona who moved to Guardia in January permanently.  Of course that opens up a conversation of a million questions and answers.  As it turned out we were going to see a house for sale that was just doors down from them.  Unfortunately when you say a few doors down from someone in Guardia you could be talking about a 45 degree angle of uneven stones.  They came along with us to preview the house which had a most spectacular view!

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The crane to the left is there because they are working on the building that was a former convent.  This view was from the terrace!! LOVE it. But you can’t live outside even if you plan only to come in the spring or fall. The kitchen had been modernized  and had a fireplace which was probably the only source of heat. That was the only room on the first floor, maybe two steps up the staircase, there was a bathroom branched off.  BIG problem there – the stairs wind a bit upwards and are marble.  How would I ever get down in the middle of the night?  One level up was a big bedroom and then another level up there was two smaller bedrooms which could be opened to make one large. Well that’s too too many stairs and made of marble, not to mention I was pretty sure there was a leak in the roof and some water damage in the walls. No sale today.

THURSDAY: We wake up to a gray day and I notice a message on WhatsApp from Pasquale.  It’s in Italian but I think it says we should move the car because we may be over the hour – that’s my rough translation.  I send Peter down to move the car to the bottom of the staircase and I will get myself down.  As I descend, it starts to rain, I don’tsee the car! I keep going down, it’s raining harder, no car, I’m at the bottom and it is a downpour and still the car is where it was parked.  I am screaming curses as I hobble with cane to the car and get in soaked to the skin, wondering how and why the car had not been started and backed up before I got down the stairs?  Don’t bother, there is no sane answer.  For a moment we discuss the message about moving the car and we are going to head to the bar BUT it has started to hail! YES, it is May and it is hailing, big marble size pellets.

Not only was the car being drummed with ice marbles, the street was also flooding. We were parked probably closer to the more level upper end but below us it just went gushing past.

All good things come to an end, even hail,storms, so we headed down to the bar to assure Pasquale that the windows were shut! However, it’s Giovedi and apparently almost every place in Guardia is closed.  No one told us.  One little cafe up the road was open so we stopped in for a slice of pizza and a delightful arancini which is a rice ball stuffed with some sauce and peas and mozzarella.

 To be continued…

 

 

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Once we are out of the garage I think we better pull over and set the GPS. Now last year we had a GPS only spoke in French and Italian. I know that’s hard to believe but it was true and so I made a point of bringing that up with Kemwell who then made a point of telling me that often happens with the cars you get locally, BUT for a mere $40 they would send me one I could put in the car. I took them up on their offer but it was packed in Peter’s suitcase BUT as the charming Andreas assured me, the upgraded car had a GPS that spoke English. So stopped on the side of the road, I program the GPS for Guardia Sanframondi and we begin our journey.  A left here, a right there, here a left, there a right, a couple of times we missed a turn and heard what would become a recurring theme, “recalculating route “.   I saw the signs for the Autostrada and it seemed like we might be on it and then not.

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OK we have been redirected a few times and somehow we actually ended up on trolley tracks, tempers are short, the car is bloody hot, with the windows open the traffic noise is horrible AND we can’t really hear the voice of the GPS because the radio will not turn off. You can’t make this stuff up. The radio could be put on mute but then it produced a static sound when we tried to increase the voice.  I would watch the map and call out a turn coming up invariably speaking over her soft voice which only prompted Peter to ask me to Shut Up.

So now we have a hot car with a GPS that we really can’t hear so we keep making mistakes. Finally I notice that we have been on this one approach three times!  And then she announces we have reached our destination! WHAT? STOP THE CAR!

I look at the programming of the GPS and it says the destination is Rome Centro!! I swear and I did, “wtf”? Peter saw me type in Guardia and so I did it again.  It has been over an hour since we left the garage and hours since we arrived in Rome from Florence, and we are still in Rome! We have had one insane issue after another today and we are soooooo cranky right now, I can’t imagine we still have some hours to go…what a long day this has been so far.  I think the worst is behind us, at least I hope it is, we seem to actually be on the autostada heading towards Campania.

We know we have to get to Guardia long before dark, you’re not going to catch me on those twisting winding roads with no shoulders in the dark! But we have to eat because if memory serves me right the last and only food we had was a cornetto and coffee early in the morning in Florence. God, I am hangry.

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Besides the fact that you can speed on the autostrada, there are great roadside restaurants along the way.  We saw a sign indicating one coming up and made a beeline for it.  Finally food! And no pre-made cellophane-wrapped ham and cheese sandwiches here, oh no siree, ma’am.  I had a great farro and vegetable salad  with beans and inhaled it.

With hours to go before I sleep, I knew a rest stop was in order and then I saw the flight of steps leading down to the ladies room.  I looked around but didn’t see a lift anywhere. I did manage to flag down someone who had a name tag on and after pointing  to the foot and cane, she points to  small handicap sign hanging  fro the ceiling in midair.  Now that’sa first, but round the corner, there is another sign on a wall indicating a handicap restroom – saved for at least another hour,

 

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300 meters – we really don’t have a concept of how far that is BUT it is ridiculously far when you’ve already had the encounter with Andreas.  We are very slowly making our way down crumbling sidewalks on a fairly steep sloping street. You can’t see the garage although I pointed out a building in the distance that looked like it had the look of circular floors. And so on we trudged till finally we approached the mouth of the garage and who should we see but the young man who sat next to Andreas – he was the Avis agent.  He announced he was waiting for us to give us the keys to the car. He took us up the elevator, handed the keys to Peter, hopped on his motorcycle 🏍 and left.  OK then.

We put the bags in the car and started the descent to exit the garage. We had been given a ticket that had to be inserted into a device on the 4th or 3rd floor to lift a bar so you could continue to exit.  I thought a pit stop was in order before we left the garage, so we stopped where we saw a restroom sign, I think the first floor. Actually I had to take an elavatory down to the ground floor, Peter stayed with the car. I followed the sign only to see an out of order sign so I looked for the handicapped bathroom found it and can’t swear it was exactly in clean working order.

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Not a soul was to be seen even though there was some sort of enclosed desk area. Next… Peter decides he should go before we go.  Minutes pass and more… He finally returns to tell me he couldn’t find the car and went all the way up,to the 5th floor!?!? Best to say nothing Lori.

We are about to head out but by now I’ve been sitting in a closed car and it is hot. Let’s put the air conditioning on. We try this and we try that and I look in the manual and nothing works. The temperature inside the car was 30C which means it was 84 degrees in the car.  That’s it, he’s taking the car back up to the 5th floor, he’s not driving 3 hours to Guardia with no a/c.  We thought we could just go back up but then we came up against that pesky barrier arm. Stupidly we decided to put that card in which of course was invalid AND of course another car came up behind us.  I jumped out of the car (as well as one can jump out of a car with a broken foot) and head up to the 5th floor on foot to get some help from the office.  Oh no there’s no one in the office 😲 What a shock!  Now the guy in the car behind Peter is out of his car and is directing Peter to back up into the other lane.  He was wearing a yellow jacket, I thought he was with Hertz or Avis. Uh no, he was just a guy trying to get the car in. So now we have to K-turn the car to go back down, defeated, hot and hangry.  Not sure of what to do about the air conditioning but we have to get out of this garage. As we get to the exit there is another barrier arm so we insert the ticket which is rejected because apparently we have overstayed our visit in the parking garage and it wants some money which of course we don’t have because it wants coins. However, anticipating this common predicament, instructions printed so small I had to get out of the car to read them in Italia.  I am  supposed to go out of the garage and enter through a doorway which brought my back to the empty office near the bathrooms out of order and there is a huge machine that looks like a combination ATM/soda machine and I put my debit card in and pay.

Get back in the car and let’s get the hell out of here…

To be continued….

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Out and about on a warm and sunny Saturday, we head back to the Flea Market to visit the food stalls in the industrial building.  When I walked in, it reminded me very much of a marketplace I went to in Paris, with the olive oil vendors and cheese mongers.  It was definitely a foodie haven.  I roamed the aisles which were full of families shopping, this being a Saturday.  20180428_130946.jpg

Wherever you looked, your eyes feasted on mounds of fresh verdura (vegetables), hanging formaggio (cheese) and salsiccia (sausage). 20180428_130001.jpg I pointed out a few Italian specialties that I knew Peter would never eat  nor understand why anyone else would eat them;  20180428_130304.jpgWhole rabbits were for sale, lots and lots of tripe (stomach intestine), the latter which I can hardly believe I ate for dinner many a night with my father. Now the thought of….let’s not go there.20180428_130202.jpg

The cooking school was on the second floor which was also one huge food court.  20180428_131235.jpgPeople everywhere eating plates of pasta and platters of mortadella, prosciutto, cheeses and olives. AND coffee or rather espresso-Italians love their tiny cups (like a shot) of espresso a few times a day.  There’s no sitting down to linger over a cup of coffee and have the waitress refill your cup. Nope, it’s a stand, sip, swig and go, for them.  Practically everyplace in Italy has a bar or is a bar and is not to be confused with an American bar although they often have wine, beer and some liquors too.

But today is a shopping day, I can feel it in my bones.  Late yesterday as we cruised through the marketplace I spied a particular style handbag 👜 and was hoping to buy one today if I could decide on the right color, decisions, decisions!  So out we go into the crowd of shoppers and after much haggling with one dealer we purchase a very nice belt for Peter and with more negotiating for that special price for you lady,  I bought a lovely pale pink handbag that will never fit in my suitcase going home and and impractical to carry on the plane because it doesn’t close up tightly enough.  Then again not sure practicality plays a big role in impulse shopping.

Enough of this stuff, where’s the antique flea market?  We don’t know who to ask, so we start walking down some other streets in our neighborhood when we come across – you won’t believe it! – A head shop.  It was like a candy store literally, colorful  and happy.  We’re on vacation so what the hey?! I pick out 5 lollipops 🍭 and some stuff that looks like brown rock candy.  I think I asked the woman at the counter about the flavor of one of the lollies and that’s when she casually mentioned that there was no CBD in them. “OH?” MMMmmmm.  That’s when she said that marijuana was illegal in Italy!! A store in Florence full of paraphernalia, pipes, hookahs, edibles, papers and more but NOT really selling marijuana.  I put the lollipops back. She did add that those amber colored candies had a trace of the oil of CBD, “for relaxation “, she said.  Tucked those little sweeties in my handbag and before we left we tried to find out if they knew where there might be an antique flea market?  It was suggested we head to St. Ambroseus Square, and once again we asked  kind strangers to call a taxi for us.

Upon arriving at said square all we found was a couple of racks of used clothing 👎.  We walked around and saw a sign in the distance, stopped at at restaurant to ask what it was and joy of joys, the answer was “oh some antiquities”.  I told you, we have a magnetic attraction to such places.  We split up, each going our own way, it was a two aisle flea market and I found two booksellers with 💯 ‘s of books and neither had what I was searching for – Alice nel  paease delle Meraviglie while Peter was probably drawn to the vintage clothing stalls.  We met in the middle, well that’s not quite true I found him trying to decide between a vintage linen sports jacket and a really smart looking striped jacket. I left him betwixt and between, he would have to decide. I meandered into a lovely booth run by an English lady who had emigrated to Italy and was now a citizen.  We talked about socialized medicine; The topic came up when she saw my boot and cane. She had some interesting English flatware with white Bakelite handles.  I thought one knife and one fork would make a nice addition to my Bakelite flatware at home.

And now we had one more stop to make, I’ve been waiting for two days….The Ponte Vecchio, famous for being the only bridge on the Arno not bombed during the war.  “We must go there Peter”.  Lol lol lol.  Happy Birthday to me – I bought a thin, white gold filigree band, a definite Florentine design, to wear with my wedding band.  Quite the dicothomy there – we bought our wedding bands at a street fair in New York for $10 each because we were looking for an art deco design and we immediately loved them. Don’t put it in the box, I’ll just wear it😍.

P.S. Peter got both the jackets, fair is fair after all.

To be continued…

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Stop, Look and there you’ll see that all the white taxis are coming from around the corner and they have people in them, let’s go that way. I can only imagine how we looked; Peter loaded down with bags hanging from his shoulders, some suitcases rolling, I’m bobbling along on my cane, quite the pair.

We made good time getting to the center of Rome and our driver dropped us off on the appropriate side of the Termini (which is important because I swear the station is the size of the Coliseum).

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I tried to plan ahead for everything; I made the train reservations weeks ago.  I converted currency so I wouldn’t get ripped off at the airport and I would have €uros to pay the taxi. Oh so smart- BUT what I didn’t remember was that I had to get some small bills AND that the cab drivers in Italy don’t expect tips. SOoooo the $53€uro cab fare had me in a bind.  I had a fifty and a ten, was tired and couldn’t figure out a tip, because Italian cabs charge for luggage too.  Oh well, that $€7 tip re-enforced the driver’s opinion that Americans are either rich and generous or stupid but at least not Ugly Americans.  FD6366CD-F097-4F4D-BD4F-E9571560417A.jpeg

Now it was just a matter of waiting to see out train’s departure  announced on the big board – just like Penn Station. We waited, and waited, and waited. Pretty soon I was sitting on the floor ( I still can’t believe it), I was so tired, my foot was aching. Train was scheduled to depart at 12:18 and by the time it was 12:10 and the binario (platform) was still not posted, I suggested Peter go to the Italo booth and see what’s what. Naturally there was a line AND he had to take a number! Like in a butcher shop!!  Good thing he went, apparently the last stop on the 🚂 is Brescia, so that’s the town that appears on the screen. Who knew?  Don’t ask, don’t tell.

Here we are again trying to transport 5 pieces of luggage, 2 alter cockers, 1 cane  and a partridge in a pear tree through a swarming crowd (think the subway at 8:30am) and locate platform 6, Carriage #5 (think West 45th St at 7:45pm). We got to Carriage #5 and WE COULDN’T LIFT THE LUGGAGE UP THE TWO STEPS into the train!!! Oh what a scene; Literally we look like we are out of Central Casting. Unwashed, unshaven, the ubiquitous black string passport bag swinging down in front of me, Peter straining to pull the big suitcase up the stairs, ay yi yi! Finally some man who truly would like to board the train, picks up the bag and plops it down in the aisle. I wondered where the suitcases would go – they gather behind the last seat. BUT We still have another bag too heavy for me to lift and I’m still outside and Peter is in. This rather strong looking young woman looks at me and the cane and shakes her head and picks up the bag and pushes it onto the train where Peter can retrieve it and store with the other. A thousand Mille grazies are pouring forth from me as I get on the train. I half expected to hear 👏 not because I did anything but because finally I’m out of everyone’s  way and they can get on the train. We found space for the smaller bags, settled down and shortly into the trip fell sound 💤.

Sleep is an amazing state especially when you’ve been up for over 24 hours.  THEN, “Signora, SIGnora, SIGNORA” –  I wake up with a horrific start and cry “ Oh no I was sleeping”.  That precious elusive sleep was snatched away with a “Tickets please”.

To be continued…

 

 

 

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For once in our lives we actually left for the airport on time, no racing out the door, no panic because we could not find a cab.  Off to a good start.  Let’s begin by saying I’m probably not the best packer, so for me to pack for a month’s stay in a place where they hang their underwear out on the front balcony was a real challenge and we ended up with 1 LARGE suitcase, 1 Carry-on suitcase,  2 small Travel cases and 1 large  leather tote and a cane of course.

First things first, we knew our best bet was to get me in a wheelchair because you know the gate I’m going to is ALWAYS the farthest away.  I like to look at the boards of the other 9 gates as I drag my bags along to see if they are going someplace I’d rather be.

Never being handicapped before, I had no idea of how fantastic it was to travel this way.  I was wheeled up to the counter because I had a bag to check (and no Juanita we we were not overweight). Madeia took care of us, with the broadest most perfect ivory smile I have ever seen. She laughed, she told us about her singing career and her idol, Billie Holiday.  We promised to be in the audience when she performed some day in Carnegie Hall and I do believe she will get there.

She signaled for someone to take us to the TSA check and me and the wheelchair just cruised to head of line and we let Peter come with us.  For some reason I was pre-approved but he was not, Mmmm.  Who knew Mr. Press was a security risk? Anyway I had to put all my bags on belt and hobble thru the X-ray.  I didn’t beep but they ran the wand over the boot – let us not forget the infamous shoe bomber! Once thru I’m left sort of standing there leaning like the Tower of Pisa waiting for the man and the wheelchair to appear and at the same time look over at the conveyer for my bags.

FC482810-7C9E-4F66-9933-BAD5EE1D2B60.jpegI see all but the tote which of course has my phone, my iPad, and my euros. I’m really panicking and if you can imagine what a whirling dervish with a limp would look like like -that’s me as I scan my entire perimeter looking for that bag and Peter joins in looking for his passport. Kindly man shows up with chair and wonders what the problem is? Where is my bag?  Apparently it is under further examination….

It’s noon, we left at 10:10, still no coffee, still no breakfast.   C554415C-58A1-4490-BFA9-381229FC0AECI wish I could remember kindly man’s name but I can’t, says Dunkin Donuts and that sounds good to me.  Wait a minute, didn’t I envision a month of frutta, formaggio, Parma e caffe per colazione every morning for a month?? Oh well still in USA. I drew the line at the coffee though insisting we go to Starbucks after we got the donuts. Look how quickly one can become a diva sitting on a throne! LOL.

Finally onto the plane for a quick flight to Charlotte NC for a 2+ hour layover  where I suggested we eat some real food because I remembered last year they didn’t serve dinner till around 11pm. When it was time to start boarding, this adorable young man shows up –  Kevin Hill.  Oh my, after a protracted winter of gray days and the stress of the last few days, that Southern charm was rolling off his tongue like ice cream melting on a warm day. He “yes mam’ed”  and “Miss Laura’ed” me every few words all the way from the gate right up to the plane. I told him he needed to trade up that green uniform working for the airport and get a blue, red and white Americann Airlines uniform to cash in on the perks.  With his south of the Mason Dixon line charm,  he would make a great attendant.

I booked each of us an aisle seat at opposite ends of a 4 seat row.  I figured we would work it out and so I talked Peter into giving his seat up to sit next to me.  BUT that wasn’t so smart since my bad foot was not on the aisle and we wedged in there pretty tight.  Halfway through the delicious airline meal, the man in front of Peter shoves his seat back  in full force, just about knocking his meal off the tray. Shortly thereafter the woman in front of me does the same.  THIS HAPPENS ALL THE TIME! I sit on the aisle  so I can access the bathroom and not disturb anyone else – these other people sit in the aisle seat because they are the size of a cow.

Long night, could not sleep, pretty scrunched up. I can’t even turn sideways but the rude disgusting person in front of me with her seat pushed back and blanket up to her chin , legs stretched out in front of her watching tv like she was in her living room. I was miserable 😩. I tried taking the boot off and letting it  rest on the plastic bag holding the pillow and blanket but my foot kept falling off the slippery plastic.

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I tried to take some Tylenol to ease the pain in my arthritic knees and wanted to stand up so I asked Peter to turn on his light. All the controls were on an unlit  panel and in a  moment an attendant appeared  – how embarrassing ! I tell her we don’t need any help, it was a mistake. She says, “perhaps you do, you are holding pills”. I try to explain in shorthand that my knees hurt, my foot can’t move, nor can I get up because the seat in front is so far back and and I had been thinking of going to rear of plane to see if I could sit in back with her and prop leg up. At first she said it was against regs  but then said seeing how I’m in distress, it would be ok. I opted for the Tylenol and would see if they worked. They didn’t!

Now I notice Peter is waching The Phantom Thread and I want to watch it also but my screen isn’t quite functioning correctly. We can’t get my screen to move to another page so Peter starts tapping really hard on the screen and rapidly. All of a sudden the seat in front of me jerks forward! Ha! I guess she thought I was sending a message , Oh please let me just make it thru this night and off the plane.

Plane was scheduled to land at 9:30am and we needed to get luggage, go thru customs get a 🚕 and get to Rome Termini (train station) where we had reservations for a train to Florence. Well first ondoes not mean first off. Quite the contrary.  I was told to move up to front of plane to wait for the wheelchair.  Got to sit in Business class and was able to fantasize how easy it would be to sleep there. Well turns out several people were gathered and directed off the plane not onto a jetway with a wheelchair waiting- no it was like a large tram on stilts because it was at plane exit level. We sat on benches along the walls. They were all over 80 I swear and not a cast, cane or boot among them!!! We began to move along, going God knows where. We stop. A young girl calls out a name and after several attempts we figure out she is saying McCarthy. That couple exits. I’m wondering how we are going to get our luggage go through customs and get that taxi to the train on time. There were like 2 couples nearer to the door than me but the nice Italian man who was the driver, looked at me and held his hand out to escort me out to the platform that then lowered you to ground level where the wheelchair was waiting.  What a contraption and how efficient!

We are wheeled to yet another terminal and I see the place looks empty, maybe the lines for customs has come and gone. NOT. Long hot lines of overtired, unwashed, teeth undressed people shifting their weight and dragging luggage.  Ahhh the wheelchair rules. Right to a special deal, no line, no questions. Nobody cares why we are here or how long we will stay or did we vote for Trump (ha ha only kidding)!

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Ah but before we get to the land of ruins and romance we still have to get to the airport on time.  And before that somebody had to put in a significant amount of time planning and planning and planning  every detail of this adventure in Italia.

The hardest part was coordinating the flights so we could fly out together but return at different times.  In the early 1990’s I wrote down about 25 goals I hoped  to achieve and one of them was to spend 3-6 months in Italy.  Well as you know life takes over and here it another year in another decade so…okay it won’t be 3 months – I’ll spend one month in Italy and really try to learn some more Italian.  And that’s why we are flying home at different times LOL – it’s my dream, not Peter’s.

My sister-in-law Juanita was kind enough to agree to stay in our apartment and feed out cats and move our car for alternate side parking.  Luckily for us it coordinated with some NYC doctor appointments she had. So far she has reported that the luck of the Irish has been with her because the 2 times she went down to move the car, the street cleaner didn’t show up in the designated half hour you must be in your car and prepared to move it. Luck of the Irish??? She’s Spanish and Italian!!! 418DAE9B-3225-43EF-9A33-EEC8BEEAF863

Then there was the housing arrangements n Guardia San Framondi where we decided to return. It’s a small village in the mountains of Campania.

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View of Guardia Sanframondi. You can clearly see the old town and parts of the new town built around it.

Last year we came as tourists, this year we live here.  Also a car rental, train tickets to and from Florence ( YES we spent 3 nights in Firenze), two hotel rooms for two nights in Rome because return flights to NYC are early morning and Guardia 3 hours away! Cell phone plans, cancel newspapers in NYC and NJ,  hold the mail, cover myself for real estate ( more about that later), sign permission slips for key entry to our apt for Juanita and then Jade, who is coming in for 4 days to take care of the cats and visit her mom and also our cat sitter wo will look after the fur babies for 2 days until Peter returns. Exchange currency, WHEW!

I did all this planning throughout February and early March AND THEN on March 8th, I broke my right foot 😫!

A Nor’easter was raging outside so I stayed inside and was cleaning. Vacuumed the den, left the vacuum cleaner in the doorway, picked up the brass waste basket and walked barefoot out of the room – tripped on the cord, dropped the metal can and must have  have landed on my own foot and broke (not fractured) the fifth metatarsal.  At this point I didn’t

really believe it was broken but I can now say I brought my boot to the boot. Does the cliche, “…the best laid plans…” come to mind?

But the next day after a hobble to City MD and brutally revealing X-Ray and a visit to an orthopedist , I added this to my pack list; 8FEE8EB9-48A9-49D8-A7EE-3A65B57FE6AD

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