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Posts Tagged ‘ceramics’

A TOWN SO RICH IN CERAMICS, IT PAID ITS TAXES IN VASES!!

The last couple of years I have spent time in Campania, where the the town of Cerreto Sannita is known for its wondrous ceramics!  I had the privilege of meeting one of the great master ceramists there, Elvio Sagnella, whose own showroom is in the grotto that housed the workplace of  the esteemed great master, Nicola Giustiniani.  I purchased some beautiful pieces from his son, who showed us around the grotto and pointed out the new look ceramics that he and his brother were creating- breaking away from centuries old patterns.

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Deruta -Famous for its Majolica – photo from Pinterest

This day we went on a tour of a ceramic factory in Deruta, in Umbria.  “Deruta is famous as a homeland of ceramics and pottery production  among the most beautiful and precious in Italy.   The cohesion between Deruta and its ceramics is indissoluble and it is the main characteristic of this little town. This production has its roots in  in the most ancient past of Deruta, forging its own historical identity…. Official documents establish  that ceramics of Deruta have been produced since the XIIIth century, although we have reasons to believe that activity such as this started one century earlier.  Anyway, at the end of the XIIIth century, Deruta produced  so many ceramics that it could pay the charges imposed by Perugia in vases instead of money…as early as 1358, Deruta exported more than one thousand vases to Assisi, the homeland of St. Francis….” excerpted from Wikipedia.

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One of the many shops offering exquisite ceramics. Photo from Pinterest

We were invited to a private tour of one of the oldest, if not the oldest ceramic factory in continuous existence and operated and owned by the same family. The Grazia family has been producing fine majolica since 1500.   I believe there were over six generations represented in the ancestral photo gallery.

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A photo of all the workers one year and the owners.

After walking through room after room of magnificent ceramics, none of which I could afford (and if I could I would be afraid to use them) I came across a small simple white dish with a raised concentric heart design meant for dipping oil.  Interestingly enough when I was in Campania, someone told me that only Americans dip Italian bread in oil and the restaurants in Guardia were mystified at first by the request.

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The patterns were myriad. The intricate designs endless

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This vase shape is a very old design.

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A peek into the owner’s office!

I learned that majolica is really a process and all this time I thought it was a green leaves sort of pattern, so little did I know! That’s right, little!

To Be Continued…

 

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CERRITO SANNITA – THE CERAMIC CITY 

I’VE GOT TO BRING SOMETHING HOME FOR THE MAH JONGG LADIES!!!!

What am I going to bring back for the ladies in my Mah Jongg? Here I am in the middle of beautiful nowhere and as I was told by Pasquale, this is not a tourist mecca, so shorthand for NO SOUVENIRS!  I am determined not to go back home without something for the ladies.  Pasquale and Raphael have a solution – why not take a trip to Cerrito Sannita, a nearby town which is reputed to be The Ceramic City.      That sounded like a plan so we drove with Raphael to the lovely town of Cerrito Sannita.  I was on the hunt for some small ceramic item to bring back to the gang.  Similar maybe to the small dish Lili brought back to us from Israel.  We use it for the pushke.  Time for a bit of a side note!

The pushke is Yiddish for a box or container kept in the household to collect loose change;  The money is to be contributed to charity.  We call our ante up money and the money from wall games our pushke, BUT in our group charity begins at home and we allow someone to win all that money, with none going to charity.  I know that sounds terrible but since we are now in a political era of full disclosure and transparancy, I thought it best to be honest.  

Cerrito Sanita is a lovely town, not so gray like Guardia and not too colorful;  Actually I had the impression that the whole town was shades of yellow and beige.  

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Cerrito Sanita Plaza in front of Church

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Shades Of Gold and Beige

Our first stop was a visit to a museum and gallery.  There was a large exhibtion of local art – carving, casting, painting and design.  It was interesting but I was eager to go looking for some ceramic treasures.   We started walking up what appeared to be the main retail area, there were several ceramic shops – YAY! 

Whoa…first store and it looks like we are in a boutique on Madison Avenue.  Next store, also filled with what is known as antiche arti ceramiche.  All of the pieces were beautiful, lovely, rich in detail and VERY EXPENSIVE not to mention the fact that really these were the kind of pieces your great aunt gave you at your wedding.  You put in the cabinet and there it remains!  I know that sounds terrible but truly these works are very ornate and certainly don’t fit into my lifestyle and there was nothing suitable for the ladies.  

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You See What I Mean!

We walked around this clean and serene town checking out shop and shop, each one  showcasing their own ceramic masterpieces.  Discouraged and tired I was ready to return to Guardia when Raphael suggested we might try a workshop in an adjacent  small village, San Lorenzello.  It turns out that one of Raphael’s former student’s father, Egnello Guista, is a master ceramicist and has his own workshop and showroom in San Lorenzello.  We arrive at the workshop which appears to be empty, but then Raphael shouts out, “Permisso” and Antonio appears from a room on the second floor.  Antonio shows a few items but suggests we follow him to the real showroom.  When we arrived, we were ushered into a semi-underground grotto!  The surroundings were surreal in this cool stone showroom.  Antonio explained that this grotto was the actual workroom of one of the great master ceramicists.   When he died, Antonio’s father bought the workshop and turned it into his own showroom.  Antonio showed us where the clay would slide down a chute into the room and how it would be slapped onto the stone wall to drain before they worked it.   Unfortunately   (for the Mah Jongg ladies), although the designs were much more contemporary and certainly less expensive, still there was nothing there that I could see bringing home for them.   Ahh… but for me and my sister-in-law, Juanita I found the perfect little gift that would hold a lot of meaning for her and me.  A small Nativity set, unusual because it was cast in brown.  The sets I bought were significantly smaller than the one in the photo, lol lol.

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Antonio In The Grotto Showroom.

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Absolutely Beautiful Nativity Set. Hand Carved And A Meer 600 Euros

Although with due respect to the time-honored and revered art and design of the artistic ceramics, aka Neopolitan style, the two sons, now involved in the business have begun experimenting with copper and magnesium to create brightly colorful bowls and other pieces.  What they are creating is along the lines of the ceramics we would find here in the United States, whereas, the replication of the old designs might be found in some shops along Park or Madison Avenue.

We head back to Guardia Sanframondi where Pasquale awaits our arrival and we will be off to see two properties for sale.

To be continued…

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