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The Friday Finale – Farewell Quebec – See You Soon

The last day of your vacation always comes too soon, whether you’ve been gone two weeks or 4 days!  We planned this trip with that i mind so we booked return flights just after 5:00pm with the thought that we would have a good part of the day to continue our exploration of the charming village of Vieux Quebec.  

After a breakfast of crèpes and the usual assortment of toasts, bread, ham, cheese, a pork breakfast paté, and about 100 jams, jellies and spreads – whew! We went back to our rooms and packed. Marjorie graciously allowed us to store all of our belongings for the rest of the day and so out and off we went!  

The day was significantly warmer than it had been all week but there were some clouds so it was hard to decide what to wear now and on the way home because everything else would be packed.  By now you must know what our first stop was – Yes we went to the Starbucks in the Frontenac.  The Chateau is clearly the focal point of the town, if not by its sheer size then certainly by its magnificent facade.  Each side of this historic structure is different and impressive in its own right.

Looking Up, Up, Up

Looking Up, Up, Up

The Morning Fix

The Morning Fix

We took a different route to Starbucks this morning and passed by a beautiful Art Deco building.  Known as the Price building, we discovered it was the very building that we had admired for the past several nights.  In the evening, it was lit up and bore a striking resemblance to the Woolworth Building in New York City.  The Price family was in paper and in the dazzling lobby were some plaques depicting the industry.

Logging is the backbone of the paper industry

Logging is the backbone of the paper industry

Matt and Stacey wanted to walk up to The Plains of Abraham and I had had it with walking up any more hills so we accompanied them part of the way and then we meandered through some of the more residential streets of Old Quebec.  From the top of the hill on the Plains, Matt captured some beautiful photos of the city below and beyond.

View from the Plains of Abraham. The south side of the Frontenac is in the distance.

View from the Plains of Abraham. The south side of the Frontenac is in the distance.

A closer view:

A bust of Samuel Champlain in the forefront

A bust of Samuel Champlain in the forefront

All good things must come to an end and so we joined each other for lunch at a restaurant we had discovered the first day we were in Quebec but had not frequented.  Restaurant 1640 proved to be a great place to have our farewell meal.  The cream of vegetable soup was delicious and my quiche was just the right size.

Farewell lunch at Restaurant 1640

Farewell lunch at Restaurant 1640

So it’s au revoir Quebec, à bientôt!

All photos courtesy of Matthew Weinstein

THIS IS MATTHEW!

THIS IS MATTHEW!

 

THURSDAY – But of course, it’s raining again

The weather did a 360 and went from sunshine to clouds with the threat of rain and the temperature dropped a bit.  Already totally acclimated as true Québécquois, we didn’t let a few clouds and raindrops deter us from our mission.  Today’s sojourn was to be a walking tour of the Upper City;  Quebec City consists of an Upper City and a Lower City.  Hardly surprising as I’ve tried to relate to you the many ups and downs of the town.  Armed with umbrellas we set off;

"Neither snow nor rain nor dark of night..."

“Neither snow nor rain nor dark of night…”

We headed straight to the Starbucks located on the Grande Allee for a shot of caffeine and warmth.  Note the girls are wearing gloves today!  The Upper City is outside the walls of Old Quebec and the size and magnitude of  the buildings was a far cry from the stone houses in Vieux Quebec.  Below is a photo of the street and doorway of our B & B.

Chez Marie-Claire 64 Rue Sainte Ursule

Chez Marie-Claire
64 Rue Sainte Ursule

The Ursuline nuns are a real presence in our neighborhood.  There is a museum devoted to their order, they run a school and there are several plaques in the area with historical information regarding their historical contribution to the town.

As I said, the Grande Allee is home to several government buildings, the largest being The Parliament (pictured below).

The Parliament of Quebec

The Parliament of Quebec

The ediface is adorned with multiple life-size bronze statues depicting the heroes, statesmen and other historic figures.  We went inside just to see the lobby and went through a security check just a shade less than an airport.  Built in the late 1800’s it’s 8 stories high and quite elegant inside.

From there we took a quick look at The Plains of Abraham which on this day looked rather dismal and empty and certainly it was windier there than on the streets where the large buildings buffered us from some of the wind gusts.  We passed a very large castle-like building which was the Mènage Militaire.  

Time to eat again (quell surprise)!  This afternoon we seem unable to make a unified decision as to where and what to eat!  Everyday, I say I don’t care because I don’t usually eat lunch, however in the end I try to find something on the lighter side.  Since we couldn’t agree on a restaurant or an ethnicity, we opted to go to Epicerie Europeenne, which was essentially a small market with a superb cheese and olive selection as well as pre-prepared sandwiches.  Good choice for all!  We decided to pick up some local cheese, a baguette, some olives and some gin and Bloody Ceasars for a pre-dinner at home cocktail hour. Another good choice!

Au Revoir!

All photos courtesy of Matt Weinstein

“Oh what a beautiful morning, oh what a beautiful day...”  and we’re not in Oklahoma!  Wednesday has dawned sunny and bright and we  joined  Stacey and Matt for a delightful le petit dejeuner  of delicious French toast and fruit and fromagee et jambon and we were introduced to Maple Butter.  A basket of bread and toasts and about 8 different jams, jellies, butters and honey were on the table. Maple butter is yummy on toast or on your spoon!

Breakfast Is Served

Breakfast Is Served

Animated Conversation Between Brother and Sister

Animated Conversation Between Brother and Sister

Marjorie gives us some ideas as to where to go and what to see on this lovely day.  We are going to go to the Lower City and explore the many boutiques on Rue Petit Champlain and then walk to the street where there are many antique shops.  Quebec City is a multi-level town.  I think our hotel is somewhere in the middle and it’s a long way down!  I say let’s take the Funicular, if not for the ease then at least for the experience.  Of course it WAS an experience.  The four of us are in this rather small green metal and glass box 193 feet up and on our way down the track WHEN all of a sudden it lurches to a stop 2/3 of the way down. Oh boy!

193 Feet Up!

193 Feet Up!

Uh, We've STOPPED

Uh, We’ve STOPPED

Eventually it began again and we don’t know why it did or why it stopped and when we got to the bottom and saw the ticket-taker at the other end, he apologized to us that our car was suspended for 3-4 minutes!

Stacey and I discovered a fantastic kitchen supply store and saw so many gadgets that we had never seen in the USA.  We each bought a pair of scissors that will chiffonade herbs – I can’t wait to use them on basil to make a fabulous Sunday sauce.    We meandered our way through the oldest part of Vieux Quebec admiring the architecture and reading the numerous plaques provided by the government informing us of the historical significance of the buildings and places.

This is the Place Royale, the original centre of Vieux  Quebec

This is the Place Royale, the original centre of Vieux Quebec

Our foursome spends considerable amount of time discussing when they’re going to eat and where they’re going to eat and here we are in a Vietnamese restaurant – with me slurping up a delicious soup.

The hostess instructs me in the art of eating this soup.

The hostess instructs me in the art of eating this soup.

No trip to another country or state would be complete for us if we didn’t find the antique section or at least a flea market.  Stacey dons a hat and strikes a pose.

Combien ca coute?

Combien ca coute?

More walking and eventually we are looping back towards home and that means what goes down must now go up but we’re not near the funicular and I groan as I look up at the stairs and the elevation we need to reach to get back.  We walked through the ramparts amidst more cannons than I have ever seen before.  As we climbed higher and higher the views were amazing, and one of the most surprising would be below!

The Port of Quebec is FROZEN still!!!

The Port of Quebec is FROZEN still!!!

It was good to get home and sit down and curl up in my overstuffed armchair.

All photos courtesy of Matthew Weinstein

Gite Chez Marie-Claire has a delightful second floor living room with a huge TV and a wall of bookcases and big comfy furniture;  It was a cosy comforty refuge from the cold wind and rain.  I tucked myself into a huge armchair, legs propped up on an equally large  ottoman, computer on lap and happily playing Scrabble online.  I DID NOT WANT TO LEAVE!  But we gotta eat….

And it’s still raining, yuk!  Well Stacey and I have umbrellas but our coats are still wet from this afternoon.  Being typical New Yorkers we wonder out loud if we can order in Chinese food.  Apparently not.   Having already read about and experienced first hand the not-so-reasonable price of dining out in Old Quebec, we searched online for someplace nearby and not outrageously expensive.  That’s pretty much an oxymoron since if it’s nearby it would be in the heart of the Old City (where we are) and therefore in the heart of tourist center of Quebec.  So it was to the Canadian YELP we turned.

Les parapluies de Vieux Québec

Les parapluies de Vieux Québec

Reading the reviews was a bit disheartening since the majority of them noted the overpriced and only average food and often slow service.  There was one place we considered but when we read the reviews we were shocked that they were still in business.  Don’t the restaurant owners in Old Quebec ever check YELP?  Maybe they’re not looking for repeat business because there’s such a steady influx of tourists.  We finally settled on a restaurant named Parmesan restaurant which was close enough and we headed out delighted that it wasn’t raining.  We didn’t even get to the corner when the drops came down 😦

Restaurant Parmesan graciously welcomed us and we stepped out of the rain into  a warm and lively and busy restaurant.  We had a great corner table affording us a view of what was going on and the intimacy that comes from sitting at a table just a ways apart from the others.  There  were wine bottles with candles stuck in them, strings of red peppers  and garlic cloves hanging everywhere, red walls and even an accordian  player!

Bella Musica

Bella Musica

Needless to say the combination of music and martinis made us forget the rain and we had a great time and ate a lot.

Martinis Make Everything Nice

Martinis Make Everything Nice

Bon Soir!

Many of my readers are personal friends and they know that we often travel with Peter’s sister and her husband.  We have been on some really great adventures with them and some,… well let’s just say I don’t always make great choices.  I say “I” because usually I am  the one that comes up with an idea of where to go.  Matt gets the ball rolling by asking “When are we going to go on a trip again”?  It’s not that they don’t travel a lot because they do and we  do not.   Once we bought the cottage we were financially obligated to it and our travel wings were virtually clipped.

In the past we have gone to South Africa with them, to an island “…who shall not be named”, to the Bahamas and now we are in Old Quebec City.  In December I got the idea to come up with a trip utilizing the miles I had accumulated on a credit card.  I had to book a trip by the end of  December or they would expire.  I didn’t have A LOT and wanted to get two tickets, go to a place that wouldn’t require traveling all day and would be interesting to all of us.  We are not resort people.  Why would I  go to a beach resort when I have my own cottage by the sea?  And also, we like to explore cities and experience their culture, which is why we always opt to stay in a Bed and Breakfast.   Quebec seemed like a great place for us to go.

Stacey agreed and when we booked this trip in December for April, I had visions of spring-like days where we would be able explore this ancient walled city on foot.  Well here we are;  It’s presently 48 degrees and pouring rain!!!  We’re used to being pedestrians and in fact that was one of the more attractive features of Old Quebec for us:  We would be able to walk everywhere  and not deal with renting a car.  Walking in the rain is a whole other story.  We arrived around noon and it was pouring  and it has been steadily raining ever since.   We ventured out, looking for a nearby place to have lunch;  Peter wanted an omelette.

YES we're having omelets

Mous arrivons Chez Marie-Claire

DSC05786-L

YES we are having omelets

Photos courtesy of Matt Weinstein

We stopped at a cute little place called Cafeé Bistro L’Omelette. For a tourist city (read trap) the prices were reasonable (sort of) and lunch for the four of us was $50.  Not so reasonable after all and that was only lunch!  We walked around a bit and lo and behold what did we find but a Starbucks! What a spot they have – in the lower level of the Chateau Frontenac and on the  promenade overlooking the St. Lawrence Seaway.   From there we explored some of the shops and the beautiful lobby of this grandest of grand hotels.  It was virtually empty and one of the shop owners confirmed this is the very slow season.  I guess this  was one reason the room rates seemed attractive.  Duh ya think??

Not only is it raining, there are also mounds of snow here and there around the city.  Every time we have gone on a trip I’ve managed to find at least one place to visit that is unique to the country we are in and often off the beaten track.  I don’t know about this time.  So far all I’ve discovered is a street outside the walled city that is renowned for its Canadian cheese shops AND that would require us finding a cab and traveling outside of Old Quebec.

Gite Chez Marie-Claire (our B & B) is charming as are the owners, Marjorie and Pascal.  Our room is on the third floor and I have never been in a B & B with an elevator.  Oh well, I need the exercise.

English: Chateau Frontenac, Quebec City, Quebe...

The Grandest of the Grand Hotels The Chateau Frontenac

Just like the TV station, USA, New York City could have the same slogan, “Characters Welcome”.  If ever there was one place in the world where anything and anyone and everyone and everything goes – this is it.  Everybody does their own thing here, whether they be human, animal or even plant.  The fact that all of this diversity and individuality and sometimes quirkiness is contained in the 22.7 square miles that Manhattan is made of, only serves to intensify the total impact.  Here are a just a few of the characters spotted in The City yesterday!

Siesta in the Park

Siesta in the Park

New Construction Underway

New Construction Underway

Fashion Forward

Fashion Forward

"What's that you say"?

“What’s that you say”?

One Must Always Dress For Croquet

One Must Always Dress For Croquet

A Regiment Of Turtles

A Regiment Of Turtles

Decked Out In Spring Colors

Decked Out In Spring Colors

"Up To My Knees In ...."

“Up To My Knees In ….”

"Goin' My Way"?

“Goin’ My Way”?

"w..ooops"

“w..ooops”

All photos courtesy of Murray Head

 

Harking back to my blog of a few days ago when I shared the wonderful news of the impending birth of my third grandchild, I was sent something I thought you all might get a kick out of.  For those of you who are mothers and grandmothers, I think you will be laughing till tears come to your eyes.  I know I was.  My friend, Sarajane sent this to me and I’m reposting it here for all to have a good laugh on this not-so-sunny Saturday.  It is about 10 minutes long and hilarious so sit yourself down and enjoy!  For all you new moms out there – watch, listen and learn – YOUR DAY WILL COME!

This post really should have happened yesterday and then it would be Thursday’s Top Ten.  Well this wouldn’t be the first time or last time I’m behind with the calendar.  My friend, Gail, sent this to me and not only am I posting these words of sage advice, I’m also attempting to put several of the suggestions into my daily routine.  It’s just after midnight so I think this post should be known as Saturday’s Six Suggestions!

English: Ginger cross-section

English: Ginger cross-section (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Make muscle pain a memory with ginger

When Danish researchers asked achy people to jazz up their diets with ginger, it eased muscle and joint pain, swelling and stiffness for up to 63 percent of them within two months. Experts credit ginger’s potent compounds called gingerols, which prevent the production of pain-triggering hormones. The study-recommended dose: Add at least 1 teaspoon of dried ginger or 2 teaspoons of chopped ginger to meals daily.  

Heal heartburn with cider vinegar

Sip 1 tablespoon of apple cider vinegar mixed with 8 ounces of water before every meal, and experts say you could shut down painful bouts of heartburn in as little as 24 hours. “Cider vinegar is rich in malic and tartaric acids, powerful digestive aids that speed the breakdown of fats and proteins so your stomach can empty quickly, before food washes up into the esophagus, triggering heartburn pain,” explains Joseph Brasco, M.D., a gastroenterologist at the Center for Colon and Digestive Diseases in Huntsville, AL.

Chase away joint and headache pain with cherries

Latest studies show that at least one in four women is struggling with arthritis, gout or chronic headaches. If you’re one of them, a daily bowl of cherries could ease your ache, without the stomach upset so often triggered by today’s painkillers, say researchers at East Lansing ’s Michigan State University . Their research reveals that anthocyanins, the compounds that give cherries their brilliant red color, are anti-inflammatories 10 times stronger than ibuprofen and aspirin. “Anthocyanins help shut down the powerful enzymes that kick-start tissue inflammation, so they can prevent, as well as treat, many different kinds of pain,” explains Muraleedharan Nair, Ph.D., professor of food science at Michigan State University . His advice: Enjoy 20 cherries (fresh, frozen or dried) daily, then continue until your pain disappears.

Tame chronic pain with turmeric

Studies show turmeric, a popular East Indian spice, is actually three times more effective at easing pain than aspirin, ibuprofen or naproxen, plus it can help relieve chronic pain for 50 percent of people struggling with arthritis and even fibromyalgia, according to Cornell researchers. That’s because turmeric’s active ingredient, curcumin, naturally shuts down cyclooxygenase 2, an enzyme that churns out a stream of pain-producing hormones, explains nutrition researcher Julian Whitaker, M.D. and author of the book, Reversing Diabetes. The study-recommended dose: Sprinkle 1/4 teaspoon of this spice daily onto any rice, poultry, meat or vegetable dish.

Prevent digestive upsets with pineapple

Got gas? One cup of fresh pineapple daily can cut painful bloating within 72 hours, say researchers at California ’s Stanford University . That’s because pineapple is natually packed with proteolytic enzymes, digestive aids that help speed the breakdown of pain-causing proteins in the stomach and small intestine, say USDA researchers.

Give your back some TLC with grapes

Got an achy back? Grapes could be the ticket to a speedy recovery. Recent studies at Ohio State University suggest eating a heaping cup of grapes daily can relax tight blood vessels, significantly improving blood flow to damaged back tissues (and often within three hours of enjoying the first bowl). That’s great news because your back’s vertebrae and shock-absorbing discs are completely dependent on nearby blood vessels to bring them healing nutrients and oxygen, so improving blood flow is essential for healing damaged back tissue, says Stengler.

I  just want you all to know that everything they say about being a Grandmother is true. Grandbabies are life’s reward for having their parents in the first place.  I wish I had the way with words that could convey the swelling in your heart and throat and the tears that creep up behind your eyeballs when one of those darlin’ grandchildren smile at you.  

Francesca is going to be the middle sister, in a family of three!   Oh I do hope baby number three is another girl – I’m sure that sounds really selfish since I think Tom is hoping for a boy, but that’s the glory of being a Grandma, you can say something like that and get away with it.

Due in October? Hey that's my birthday month, Mommy!

Due in October? Hey that’s my birthday month, Mommy!

Cover of "The Top One Hundred Pasta Sauce...

Cover of The Top One Hundred Pasta Sauces

I just love making pasta dishes with vegetables!  Growing up we had pasta at least once a week or twice.  Of course we didn’t call it pasta, we called it macaroni and instead of sauce we called it gravy.  I don’t remember any pasta or macaroni dishes made with vegetables either. We had tomato sauce with meatballs or spare ribs and often had shells (my favorite), rigatoni, ziti, mostociolli and spaghetti.  On Fridays we sometimes had linguine with clam sauce  or linguine with marinara sauce or with olive oil and garlic and of course we had lasagna now and then.  But never a meal with pasta and vegetables.  I wonder if this was because it was more American to eat your macaroni mainly with meat or was it because we could.  My grandfather  told me that when he was growing up in Italy, maybe they ate meat with their macaroni on Sundays.

I didn’t discover the world of pasta and vegetables until much later in life.  I came across a cookbook unlike the other Italian cookbooks I owned;  It is The Top One Hundred Pasta Sauces.   This cookbook embraces the art of pasta sauce created with vegetables, fish and meat.  I learned to love Linguine al Limone (linguine with lemon),  and Pasta e Ccci, ( chick peas and pasta broth), Paglia e Fieno alla Ciociara (straw and hay) just to name a few. The recipes seem exotic yet are made with common ingredients – I wonder if this is what my grandfather ate every day in Italy?

PENNE with SWISS CHARD and CAULIFLOWER

4 TBS Olive oil

1 cup diced onion

1 head cauliflower cut into small flowerets

Salt to taste

1# penne

4 cloves garlic sliced thin

1# Swiss Chard roughly chopped

1/2 tsp red pepper flakes

4 oz grated pecorino romano

Boil water, add cauliflower, salt, cook 3 minutes.  Remove cauliflower, set aside and reserve 1/2 cup of water.

Heat oil in large skillet, add onion – cook medium heat until golden brown about 15 minutes.

Then add penne.

Add garlic to skillet, cook 2-3 minutes till lightly browned, then add Swiss Chard, cook till wilts, about 3 minutes.  Stir in cauliflower and red pepper and reserved water.  Season 

Add cooked penne, toss and dust with grated cheese.

Recipe from Tom Meyer, New York Times